Archive for the ‘Reference’ Category

Purists, avert your eyes! This one isn’t Trimph Red with Black Leather, like the owner tells us it should be… No, this one is painted in Ferrari Rosso Red with Tan Leather interior, and boy does it look fantastic.

Visitors - Triumph TR6

Not only does it look fantastic but it SOUNDS fantastic too. Know why? It’s firing on a Powerspark Electronic Ignition Kit, fitted some 7 years ago and still going strong. In fact, the customer likes the Powerspark kit so much, he popped by to collect a K6 ignition kit for a performance Volkswagen beetle belonging to a friend!

So, what Powerspark equipment does a Triumph TR6 use?

All Triumph TR cars use either a Lucas 25D6 Distributor or a Delco 6 Cylinder.

If your car has a Lucas 25D6 Distributor, then you’ll need our K1 Electronic Ignition Kit.
We also do a complete replacement distributor for the Lucas 25D6, in points or electronic.

If your car has a Delco 6 Cylinder Distributor, then you’ll need our K26 Electronic Ignition Kit. We also do a complete replacement Delco 6 Cylinder distributor.

Triumph TR6 Engine 2

The guys over at Fellows Speed Shop are often in the area, as they buy ignition parts and fuel pumps from Powerspark Ignition. Today they popped by in their ‘shop truck, which houses one of their special secrets… The air cooled flat four is gone, replaced by Subaru power.

Why put a Subaru engine in a classic Volkswagen?

There are a number of reasons to do this, primarily power, drivability, heating, and fuel economy. The four cylinder Subaru engine is generally 30 years newer than the engine it replaces.

Fellows Speed Shop don’t just do engines, they also do big brake conversions… Why not get in touch and see if they can build your dream Volkswagen?

Give them a follow on Facebook or Instagram, they do cool work.

Screen Shot 2020-07-29 at 11.29.51

 

What is it?

1964 Austin Healey 3000 in the perfect colour combination.

Austin-Healey-127

Errr, what?

A Big Healey, don’t you know, a hairy chested British sportscar, with no roof, from the days when real men drove convertibles and the term ‘hair dressers car’ hadn’t been invented.

Where did you find it?

For sale through a dealer, here.

Why buy it?

If not because it’s one of the most elegant British designs ever made, then because you didn’t buy one 10 years ago when they were half the price. For that reason, you should buy one now, because on that logic in another 10 years these will be £100,000+.

Anyway, it’s a beautiful and very usable classic car.

How much is it?

£64,995 as stated.

Is that a lot?

No, not really. You could always buy this one for £12,500 and spend £50,000 and two years restoring it and then… oh wait, that doesn’t make sense.

But can I fit Powerspark Electronic Ignition?

Absolutely. We do a wide range of products for the Austin Healey, we’d call them best sellers. We can do an ignition kit, a complete distributor, ignition coil and HT leads.

Austin Healey 3000 Complete Distributor
Austin Healey 3000 Electronic Ignition Kit
Austin Healey 3000 Ignition Leads
Austin Healey 3000 Ignition Coil

Seen a car you think we should feature? Email us!

Here’s some more photos of the beautiful car…

 

 

What is it?

Thanks for asking, it’s a 1974 Volvo 240DL Estate

Screen Shot 2020-07-28 at 13.58.44

Where did you find it?

Browsing the classic car section on eBay, of course.

Why buy it?

Launched in 1974, the Volvo 240is the iconic boxy estate and the undisputed father of the whole estate car movement. Think of the 740, 940, 850, V70 and all the other famous Volvos that follow, well this is great grandad. Respect your elders!

Volvo estates have been enjoying an impressive surge in values and interest, and this one is believed to be the oldest 240 Estate in the country. That makes it cool…. BUT…

It’s not just that. Take a look at the interior, sure, the outside needs a little work but this car harks back to a simpler time, and don’t those red seats just look wonderful?

It’s a couple of weekends work and a very exciting trip to the beach.

How much is it?

At the time of writing, £1,600 with four days to go.

Is that a lot?

It’s hard to say. It clearly needs some work, but the early ones just aren’t around any more. Good late cars are expensive!

Screen Shot 2020-07-28 at 14.13.26

But can I fit Powerspark Electronic Ignition? 

Yes, the Volvo 240 Series uses our K6 Electronic Ignition Kit.

If I buy it, what will Powerspark Ignition give me?

Go on, do a bid, we’ll rustle up some HT leads and an ignition coil for you.

Bought the car and want to claim your prize? Phone Powerspark Ignition on 01527 889 453 and quote the reference ‘I bought that car you told me to buy

Seen a car you think we should feature? Email us!

Here’s some more photos of the car…

Screen Shot 2020-07-28 at 13.58.38

 

Well this was a little treat!

This lovely MG Metro Turbo popped by for a new distributor and ignition module.

Launched at the October 1982 Birmingham Motor Show the MG Metro Turbo went head to head in the marketplace with Ford’s XR2 (launched 1981). The Peugeot 205 GTI would arrive in 1984, and the rest, as they say, is history.

With a quoted bhp of 93, 0–60 mph in 9.9 seconds, and top speed of 112 mph (180 km/h) this car had few direct competitors at the time, although the growing demand for “hot hatches” meant that it soon had a host of competitors including the Ford Fiesta XR2, Peugeot 205 GTI and Renault 5 GT Turbo.

These cars were equipped with electronic ignition from the factory, using a Lucas 65D Distributor. This car uses a Viper coil, along with a Powerspark 65D Distributor and 8mm double Silicone HT Leads. (The same HT leads used by the Mini and Morris Minor.)

Looking for an MG Metro Turbo? Try Car and Classic or eBay… But don’t expect much change from £10,000!

Visitors - Mg Metro Turbo

The MG Metro Turbo was replaced in 1990 by the Rover Metro GTi, with the advanced K series engine delivering more power and delivering it through an end on 5 speed gearbox. Now though the Rover management had decided the MG badge was for genuine sports cars only and already plans and actions were afoot to provide such cars (MGF, are your ears burning?) Thus future performance Rover Metros were to be the GTa and GTi models.

Visitors - MG Metro Turbo 2

 

MG Metro Turbo Technical Specifcation:

Engine:
Number of cylinders: 4
Capacity: 1275 cc
Bore & Stroke: 70.61 mm x 81.28mm
Compression Ratio: 9.4:1
Valve gear: Pushrod overhead valve
Carburation: Single SU HIF44
Turbocharger: Garrett Air Research T3
Max Boost Pressure: 7.5 psi
Max Power: 93 bhp (S 6130 rpm)
Max Torque: 85lb/ft (a 2650 rpm)
Transmission:
Type: 4 speed all synchromesh
Clutch: Single dry plate
Suspension:
Front: Independent bottom link braced by anti roll bar. Top link operating Hydragas spring. Telescopic dampers.
Rear: Independent trailing arms, anti roll bar, coil spring pre loaded on Hydragas unit.
Wheels: Vented cast alloy 13″ diameter, 5.5 J rims
Tyres: Steel braced radial low profile 165/60 VR13.
Brakes: Front – 4 piston calliper ventilated disc. Rear-7″ drum.
Performance:
0-60 mph: 9.9 secs
Max speed: 112 mph
Fuel consumption: 50.3 mpg @ 56 mph (urban)
Top speed: 110mph
0 to 60mph: 9.5 seconds
Average fuel consumption: in a range 30 to 40mpg

Now that the lockdown is over we are once again seeing classic cars outside our Bromsgrove HQ.

First up was this superb Datsun 120A Cherry coupé, an original UK car. The owner has been on a painstaking mission to turn it into an XR-1 using all original and genuine JDM parts, and we think it’s just delightful. With a peppy little 1.2 litre engine and those excellent looks, it’s quite the fun head turner. It’s also now sporting electronic ignition and a fresh Viper ignition coil.

Next up was this Suzuki DR600. These big single ‘dual sport’ bikes are getting more and more popular, and this one was a peach. The doting owner was just popping by for some ignition components for a Series 1 Land Rover, but the bike got just as much attention as the classic cars!

CoronaVirus – Pull together with Powerspark

Posted: March 20, 2020 by goodshoutmedia in News, Reference
Calling all Classic Car Enthusiasts!
It’s a challenging time for people all around the world, and many people are facing periods of isolation, or at the very least, time apart from their usual social circles.
Although we classic car enthusiasts might not be able to attend meets and shows, we can use this time productively at home.
On Thursday we took the time to check our worldwide order statistics for the last few weeks, expecting to see a big drop – but we didn’t. We are thrilled that classic car owners all around the world are ordering parts as normal, not letting this time dampen spirits.
As many of us are now spending more time at home, it’s a great opportunity to get in the garage and improve your classic car.
As a ‘thank you’, and for some light hearted fun, we are looking for an ambassador from each of the countries shown.
We are looking for bloggers, writers, video makers and social media posters who want to share their classic car story at this time.
We have electronic ignition kits, ht leads, ignition coils, portable powerbanks and more to send to customers who are isolating.
To be one of our ambassadors simply do the following:
– Comment on the photo of your flag with your car, then share it.
– email [email protected] with some details about you and your car
We are excited to start working with people in many different countries!

Powerspark Ignition Parts Catalogue 2020

Posted: March 17, 2020 by goodshoutmedia in Reference

Powerspark Catalogue 2020

Screen Shot 2020-03-17 at 20.43.38

A quick guide on how to fit Powerspark Electronic Ignition. In this case the car used is a modified 1964 Volkswagen Beetle, but the principle is the same regardless of the car.

How to fit a Powerspark electronic ignition kit:

Posted: April 24, 2019 by goodshoutmedia in Reference

How to fit a Powerspark electronic ignition kit:

Want to print this out? Click here to view as a printable PDF.

How to fit a Powerspark electronic ignition kit:

Most Powerspark® kits can be fitted to the distributor while still in the car. If you choose to remove the distributor, turn the engine to Top Dead Centre and mark the distributor / rotor position carefully.

With the ignition switched off, disconnect the live feed at the coil ensuring it is on the +ve side of the coil. Remove the distributor cap, rotor arm, contact points and condenser carefully, retaining the screws and withdraw the wires through the distributor body.

Test fit the module first and then apply the silicone grease provided (3 small dots only) to the underside of the module baseplate, leave the screws fitted. If your kit is already on a plate then the heat grease is on out of the box.

Ensure that there is good continuity from the kit plate to the points baseplate through the internal earth wire inside the distributor. If there is not one present you may need to add one to give good continuity to the kit.

Check there is sufficient slack in the wires inside the distributor body for the base plate to turn when a vacuum unit is fitted, inserting the rubber plug to seal and secure the wires in the distributor body, use a small cable tie to keep these out of the way of moving parts.

Fit the new black trigger ring pressing down gently onto the shaft. On occasion the ring can be tight and may need to be carefully rubbed to make it wider. Only do this to make minor alterations.

Fit the rotor arm and rotate the spindle to check there is clearance between the module and the trigger, and that the rotor arm does not foul the module.

The kit will find it’s own position but if the ring and kit touch then move the module to achieve a close but not touching position (4 or 5 mm maximum) and tighten the screws firmly for good heat distribution.

Locate the live feed to the coil, ensure this goes to the +ve side of the coil, then connect the Powerspark® RED wire to the positive (+ve or 1  ensuring no other wire is on that same side.

Failure to connect the wires correctly will result in damage to the Powerspark module.

Refit the distributor cap, start the engine and check the dynamic ignition timing and adjust where necessary.

TROUBLESHOOTING:

If you can’t get the ignition to work once installed, try these suggestions:

  • Condenser and wires from distributor should not be installed in vehicle once the new electronic kit is in place.
  • Check the coil resistance prior to fitting this unit to ensure that your coil has a resistance of more than 1.5 ohms.
  • Check which terminal on the coil your live ignition feed is, ensure this is +’ve on the coil not -‘ve.
  • Connect the Black wire to the coil negative ( -ve, or 1) terminal.
  • Connect the Red wire to the coil positive ( + or 15) terminal.
  • For testing purposes, no other wires should be attached to the coil terminals, except for the center HT lead to the distributor cap.
  • Check the condition of the cap and rotor arm (replacing them if possible for testing).

If you have a positive ground vehicle you will need to either convert to negative ground or have one of our Positive Earth Powerspark kits.

Fitting Electronic Ignition and Timing:

You can set the timing dynamic with a strobe light with points ( engine running ) and with electronic system you can do the same.

You can set the timing approx as before static, and you will need a strobe light ie + and –ve to strobe and sensor lead to No1 plug lead to set the timing dynamic and then adjust to max @ 3500 rpm say 24 degree (depends on the vehicle and engine).

The electronic ignition module is mounted as near as possible to the same position as the points were, but in some cases the distributor will possibly have to be turned +/- 10 degrees from where it was with points.

Setting the timing is recommended once you have fitted one of our electronic kits. Setting by dynamic is the best and most accurate way to adjust the timing.

Battery voltage to coil:

With ignition switch ON, engine not running, check voltage at coil + terminal. The voltmeter should read somewhere around +11 to +14 volts.

If voltage is too low or there’s no reading, the battery terminal or ground connection may be corroded and need cleaning or the battery may need charging.

Some vehicles have a resistor wire running from the ignition switch to the coil +ve terminal. This resistor wire drops the voltage below 9 volts so you may need to run a non-resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil + terminal or run a +12V wire directly from the ignition switch to the red wire of the Simonbbc ignition module.

Make sure that the ignition switch terminal to which you connect this wire has power only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. Or you can, for temporary testing purposes only, run a wire directly from the battery’s + terminal to the coil + terminal, the Simonbbc ignition red wire to the coil + terminal and the black wire to the coil -ve terminal.

Do not leave the wire from the battery connected to the coil + terminal for more than a minute or so without the engine running

Gap between the black trigger and the ignition module:

If you need to increase the air gap slightly, hold ignition base plate away from distributor shaft while tightening set screw and/or loosen the two screws and retighten screws while lightly prying ignition module away from the magnet sleeve.

Do not over-torque the screws!

The black magnet sleeve should not rub against red ignition module, but exact gap is not critical. It may be necessary to gently pry red ignition module away from black magnet sleeve to keep them from rubbing together.

Ignition Coil Queries:

Standard Lucas or Bosch coil or one of our standard points type coils is recommended. The Simonbbc negative earth module red wire connects to positive ( + or 15 on Bosch coil). The black wire connects to negative ( –ve or 1 on Bosch coil). The coil should have a minimum of 1.5 Ohms internal, primary resistance. For positive earth we have a separate instruction set.

Measuring Primary Resistance:

Label and remove all wires to coil. Using a digital multimeter in the 200 Ω mode, measure between coil’s + and – terminals. Allow a few seconds for the reading to settle.

For best performance, the coil should have a minimum of 7,000 Ohms secondary resistance (measured from coil’s + or – terminal to center high tension terminal, in the 20K Ω mode of the Ohmmeter)

Vehicle System Voltage:

If the charging system voltage, measured at the coil’s positive terminal, is more than 14.2 volts at 2,500+ RPM, the voltage regulator may need replacing. Too much voltage can damage the ignition module and other electronic components. A maximum charging system voltage of 13.5 volts is adequate.

Jump-starting the vehicle:

Use caution when jump-starting a vehicle fitted with our electronic kit.

Connect the battery’s + terminal to the other vehicle’s battery + terminal. Connect the negative (black) part of the jumper cable to engine ground points, such as a bolt on the engine block, on both vehicles.

Do not turn the ignition switch to the ON position while the vehicle at the other end of the jumper cables is running. Charge your vehicle battery with the other vehicle or with a battery charger and then remove the jumper cables or charger before turning on the ignition switch and starting your vehicle.

If the ignition switch is in the ON position while both vehicles are running, the electrical surge resulting from both vehicles’ charging systems being connected together with jumper cables could be enough to destroy the ignition module and/or other any electronic components.

If you are still not able to get the supplied ignition module to function then please call the technical team for assistance or email, we will be happy to help.

Read these real customer reviews: