Powerspark ignition is the Home of affordable and reliable electronic ignition components and with the newest additions to the range there is no other company that offers the same range and service.
From back in 2002 we started development of an electronic ignition system to rival all of the expensive ignition systems on the market, the first thing we noticed when developing them is that the technology that we started with was exactly the same as the other products on the market.
This technology was simple and easily improved over the years and now in 2014 the Powerspark technology has gained a good chunk of the market becoming an affordable and reliable system for those of you wishing to upgrade your classic vehicle.
Fuel products (filters, fuel pumps and connections)
Jap six stud wheel spacers
Electronic Ignition Kits for more vintage and classic cars
A wider range of positive earth ignition kits
THE POWERMAX RED ROTOR ARM EXPLAINED
The Powermax rotor arm uses a ‘moulded in’ brass conductor and does away with the riveted old style conductor. The body is moulded using the latest materials and production machinery to close tolerances improving the fit and durability, and is suitable for high voltage coils and electronic ignitions and giving better performance and reliable accurate spark control at high r.p.m.
The Powermax red rotor arm is a must for the discerning enthusiast who understands the shortcomings and problems of the old rotor arms designed and built in the 60’s.
Main Reasons why the Red Rotor Arm is better than original Lucas rotor arms and replacement rotor arms
The integrally moulded brass inlay dispenses with the troublesome rivet used on most versions which is known to short circuit.
The increased insulation properties of the body makes them suitable for use with high voltage coils & electronic ignition kits.
The spring steel clip on the underside, in conjunction with a revised internal tolerance assures a really snug fit, even on old & slightly reduced diameter mountings.
30mm Aluminium wheel spacers for the Defender, Discovery 1 and Classic Range Rover were originally designed to allow the fitting of the wider Off-road wheels with greater ‘inset’ and more aggressive tyres without sticking out beyond the wheel arch extensions. They have become more popular as larger wheel arch extensions are available and lift kits are used. They offer the ability to improve the turning circle by spacing the wheel and tyre away from the radius arm ( that normally restricts the lock ) when more aggressive tyres are fitted in conjunction with adjusting the lock stops.
In general the aluminium wheel spacers are preferred because they reduce the ‘unsprung weight’. The spacers use high grade steel bolts and original Land Rover steel nuts and are machined to match the taper of the OE nut.
We recommend 30mm as the maximium spacer width.
Just a few thoughts shared about the replacement of my distributor on the Series 1 2.0 litre side valve engine.
After driving around the Series 1 and getting the cobwebs off the old girl I realised how sluggish and lazy the engine had become. I was sure it ran better before and checked the timing and checked the plugs etc.
I checked the old Lucas DM distributor, the cap was chipped and a poor fit, the rotor arm was loose and could move about 30-40 degrees on the shaft and the shaft itself was sloppy and moved about 45 degrees with little or no resistance. How did this start first time and run as well as it did ???
It was time for a change, I looked for similar DM distributors on e bay hoping to pick up a bargain. No such luck, but a new 25D distributor caught my eye from Simon bbc. Now I recon I have seen this same spec 25D4 fitted to 2.0 litre side valve engines in the Rover 60 and Land Rover engines in the past and I was sure the drive dog was the same.
I wanted a side entry cap, so I could reuse my old leads and so they didn’t rub on the bonnet. I like points, ‘cos I can adjust and fiddle with them. Simon bbc sold points and electronic types. I bought a NEW points type 25D4 with side entry, it arrived and sure enough it looked better than I thought it would.
Once I removed the old DM type after setting the engine to roughly TDC No1 I could see that the drive dogs were the same. It was a nice fit in the engine and it was easy to snip ½ inch from the old leads and refit into the new side entry cap. The DM coil lead went into the side of the DM body so I cut and fitted a lucar connector and attached it to the terminal on the 25D body. The quality and finish of the 25D body looks great in the engine bay.
It started first turn and I retimed the engine, no need to adjust the points gap or the vac adjust screw on the side !!! it ran smoother and ticked over slower. I could hear the points opening as the plastic rubbed over the cam on the spindle it was so quiet. I quickly took it for a run, what a difference it made. I am delighted and perhaps I will fit the electronic kit that he sells later on or even a powermax red rotor arm when the time comes.
Why had I not sorted the distributor out before, such a simple job and such a big gain ?????