All About Ignition Coils

What is an ignition coil and how does it work?

An ignition coil (also called a spark coil) is an induction coil in a car ignition system that transforms the battery’s low voltage to the thousands of volts needed to create an electric spark in the spark plugs to ignite the fuel.

An ignition coil consists of a laminated iron core surrounded by two coils of copper wire. It has an open magnetic circuit — the iron core does not form a closed loop around the windings. The energy that is stored in the magnetic field of the core is the energy that is transferred to the spark plug.

Traditionally, ignition coils were made with varnish and paper insulated high-voltage windings, inserted into a drawn-steel can and filled with oil or asphalt for insulation and moisture protection.

Modern ignition coils such as the Powerspark Viper do away with the oil filled design giving more consistent performance and reliability with no risk of sloshing or leaking.

At Powerspark we sell a range of ignition coils, and are sure to have the right part for your car.

2017 ‘No Drips’ Viper Coil Advertising Campaign

6 thoughts on “All About Ignition Coils”

  1. I installed your Powerspark electronic ignition in my NADA 1970 V8 Rover 3500S. I removed the resistive wire feeding the 1.5-ohm coil and replaced the tach with the RVI model. The car initially had spark and started. I then connected the other wire from the tach to the negative terminal on the coil according to the wiring diagrams. After a short while, the car would not start, no spark. I suspect the coil and plan to install a 3-ohm coil. What do you recommend for a coil? Thanks

    1. I can see the kit you bought was the K3X which will work with or without a ballast resistor provided the coil is correct. If the coil is a 1.5 Ohm coil but you removed the ballast this is not ideal. Please test the kit with the tacho wire off and the 3 Ohm coil and contact our technical department through the website if possible.

  2. how would i know which coil to buy? whats difference in the 105, 110 198?
    If i replaced my distributor with electronic how do i match?
    I have 74 mini and numbers on my distributor dont match anything i can find (lucas)

    1. On the 74 mini is you are currently running points then it can be the 105 or 110 that you require but if you know there is no ballast then it will be the 105 only that you can run.
      This also applies to our electronic sports distributor unless you have the High Energy system and then it will be the 198 that you can run (without ballast resistor)

      I hope this helps


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s