How to fit a Powerspark electronic ignition kit:

Posted: April 24, 2019 by goodshoutmedia in Reference

How to fit a Powerspark electronic ignition kit:

Want to print this out? Click here to view as a printable PDF.

How to fit a Powerspark electronic ignition kit:

Most Powerspark® kits can be fitted to the distributor while still in the car. If you choose to remove the distributor, turn the engine to Top Dead Centre and mark the distributor / rotor position carefully.

With the ignition switched off, disconnect the live feed at the coil ensuring it is on the +ve side of the coil. Remove the distributor cap, rotor arm, contact points and condenser carefully, retaining the screws and withdraw the wires through the distributor body.

Test fit the module first and then apply the silicone grease provided (3 small dots only) to the underside of the module baseplate, leave the screws fitted. If your kit is already on a plate then the heat grease is on out of the box.

Ensure that there is good continuity from the kit plate to the points baseplate through the internal earth wire inside the distributor. If there is not one present you may need to add one to give good continuity to the kit.

Check there is sufficient slack in the wires inside the distributor body for the base plate to turn when a vacuum unit is fitted, inserting the rubber plug to seal and secure the wires in the distributor body, use a small cable tie to keep these out of the way of moving parts.

Fit the new black trigger ring pressing down gently onto the shaft. On occasion the ring can be tight and may need to be carefully rubbed to make it wider. Only do this to make minor alterations.

Fit the rotor arm and rotate the spindle to check there is clearance between the module and the trigger, and that the rotor arm does not foul the module.

The kit will find it’s own position but if the ring and kit touch then move the module to achieve a close but not touching position (4 or 5 mm maximum) and tighten the screws firmly for good heat distribution.

Locate the live feed to the coil, ensure this goes to the +ve side of the coil, then connect the Powerspark® RED wire to the positive (+ve or 1  ensuring no other wire is on that same side.

Failure to connect the wires correctly will result in damage to the Powerspark module.

Refit the distributor cap, start the engine and check the dynamic ignition timing and adjust where necessary.

TROUBLESHOOTING:

If you can’t get the ignition to work once installed, try these suggestions:

  • Condenser and wires from distributor should not be installed in vehicle once the new electronic kit is in place.
  • Check the coil resistance prior to fitting this unit to ensure that your coil has a resistance of more than 1.5 ohms.
  • Check which terminal on the coil your live ignition feed is, ensure this is +’ve on the coil not -‘ve.
  • Connect the Black wire to the coil negative ( -ve, or 1) terminal.
  • Connect the Red wire to the coil positive ( + or 15) terminal.
  • For testing purposes, no other wires should be attached to the coil terminals, except for the center HT lead to the distributor cap.
  • Check the condition of the cap and rotor arm (replacing them if possible for testing).

If you have a positive ground vehicle you will need to either convert to negative ground or have one of our Positive Earth Powerspark kits.

Fitting Electronic Ignition and Timing:

You can set the timing dynamic with a strobe light with points ( engine running ) and with electronic system you can do the same.

You can set the timing approx as before static, and you will need a strobe light ie + and –ve to strobe and sensor lead to No1 plug lead to set the timing dynamic and then adjust to max @ 3500 rpm say 24 degree (depends on the vehicle and engine).

The electronic ignition module is mounted as near as possible to the same position as the points were, but in some cases the distributor will possibly have to be turned +/- 10 degrees from where it was with points.

Setting the timing is recommended once you have fitted one of our electronic kits. Setting by dynamic is the best and most accurate way to adjust the timing.

Battery voltage to coil:

With ignition switch ON, engine not running, check voltage at coil + terminal. The voltmeter should read somewhere around +11 to +14 volts.

If voltage is too low or there’s no reading, the battery terminal or ground connection may be corroded and need cleaning or the battery may need charging.

Some vehicles have a resistor wire running from the ignition switch to the coil +ve terminal. This resistor wire drops the voltage below 9 volts so you may need to run a non-resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil + terminal or run a +12V wire directly from the ignition switch to the red wire of the Simonbbc ignition module.

Make sure that the ignition switch terminal to which you connect this wire has power only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. Or you can, for temporary testing purposes only, run a wire directly from the battery’s + terminal to the coil + terminal, the Simonbbc ignition red wire to the coil + terminal and the black wire to the coil -ve terminal.

Do not leave the wire from the battery connected to the coil + terminal for more than a minute or so without the engine running

Gap between the black trigger and the ignition module:

If you need to increase the air gap slightly, hold ignition base plate away from distributor shaft while tightening set screw and/or loosen the two screws and retighten screws while lightly prying ignition module away from the magnet sleeve.

Do not over-torque the screws!

The black magnet sleeve should not rub against red ignition module, but exact gap is not critical. It may be necessary to gently pry red ignition module away from black magnet sleeve to keep them from rubbing together.

Ignition Coil Queries:

Standard Lucas or Bosch coil or one of our standard points type coils is recommended. The Simonbbc negative earth module red wire connects to positive ( + or 15 on Bosch coil). The black wire connects to negative ( –ve or 1 on Bosch coil). The coil should have a minimum of 1.5 Ohms internal, primary resistance. For positive earth we have a separate instruction set.

Measuring Primary Resistance:

Label and remove all wires to coil. Using a digital multimeter in the 200 Ω mode, measure between coil’s + and – terminals. Allow a few seconds for the reading to settle.

For best performance, the coil should have a minimum of 7,000 Ohms secondary resistance (measured from coil’s + or – terminal to center high tension terminal, in the 20K Ω mode of the Ohmmeter)

Vehicle System Voltage:

If the charging system voltage, measured at the coil’s positive terminal, is more than 14.2 volts at 2,500+ RPM, the voltage regulator may need replacing. Too much voltage can damage the ignition module and other electronic components. A maximum charging system voltage of 13.5 volts is adequate.

Jump-starting the vehicle:

Use caution when jump-starting a vehicle fitted with our electronic kit.

Connect the battery’s + terminal to the other vehicle’s battery + terminal. Connect the negative (black) part of the jumper cable to engine ground points, such as a bolt on the engine block, on both vehicles.

Do not turn the ignition switch to the ON position while the vehicle at the other end of the jumper cables is running. Charge your vehicle battery with the other vehicle or with a battery charger and then remove the jumper cables or charger before turning on the ignition switch and starting your vehicle.

If the ignition switch is in the ON position while both vehicles are running, the electrical surge resulting from both vehicles’ charging systems being connected together with jumper cables could be enough to destroy the ignition module and/or other any electronic components.

If you are still not able to get the supplied ignition module to function then please call the technical team for assistance or email, we will be happy to help.

Comments
  1. Neil Anderson says:

    I received one of your distributors for a positive ground 67 mg midget 1275 cc engine I installed it and I have spark coming from the coil but nothing coming from the distributor the white wire is going to a switched feed on the black wire is going to the where it’s supposed to on the coil and the other side of the coil is going directly to ground or to earth as the picture describes I still have no spark whatsoever can you give me a hint thank you

  2. Kevin Killilea says:

    I received the Powerspark Electronic Distributor from you for my 1971 Triumph TR6 and would like to get your advice on what specific spark plugs, spark plug wires and coil to purchase.

  3. Rick Bosetti says:

    I have a Lucas Sport Coil that is a ballasted version. Do I still attached the red wire to the positive side of the coil? The ignition wire and ballast wire are already connected there.
    I have a 1975 Triumph TR6.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s