A quick guide on how to fit Powerspark Electronic Ignition. In this case the car used is a modified 1964 Volkswagen Beetle, but the principle is the same regardless of the car.
A quick guide on how to fit Powerspark Electronic Ignition. In this case the car used is a modified 1964 Volkswagen Beetle, but the principle is the same regardless of the car.
A dynalite is a replacement for your dynamo, that looks like a dynamo but functions like an alternator.
You can browse the full range of Dynalites here
Here’s a handy guide to identifying which dynamator model your car requires:
Make | Model | Notes |
AUSTIN & AUSTIN HEALEY | ||
Austin A40 1952-1954 | C39/40 | |
Austin 1100/ 1300/ 1300 GT | C39/40 | |
Austin A35 1959 | C39/40 | |
Austin A40 Saloon MKI 1960 | C39/40 | |
Austin A55 1960 | C39/40 | |
Austin Seven 850 1959 | C39/40 | |
Austin Healey Sprite MKI & MKII (Early) | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
Austin Healey Sprite MKII & MKIII | C39/40 | |
Austin Healey 3000 1964 – 1968 | C42 | |
Austin Healey 3000 1959 – 1960 | C45 | |
Austin Healey 3000 1964 – 1968 | C45 | |
Austin Healey 100 1954 -1959 | C45 | |
AC | ||
AC Ace (Ford Engine) | C40L | |
ARMSTRONG SIDDLEY | ||
Siddeley Sapphire 234/236 1956 – 1958 | C39/40 | |
ASTON MARTIN | ||
Aston Martin DB2 – DB4 MKII | C45 | |
BRISTOL | ||
Bristol 400 / 401 / 403 / 404 / 405 / 406 | C39/40 | |
DAIMLER | ||
Daimler one-o-four 3.5 1957 – 1959 | C45 | |
Daimler one-o-four 4.5 1957 – 1960 | C45 | |
Daimler Majestic 1959 – 1960 | C45 | |
Daimler Conquest 1954 – 1958 | C39/40 | |
Daimler Ambulance 1949 – 1954 | C45 | |
Daimler Consort 1950-1953 | C45 | |
Daimler 2.5 1946 -1952 | C45 | |
Daimler Dart V8 SP250 | C40 | |
Daimler Regancey 1953 -1955 | C45 | |
FORD | ||
Ford Anglia | C39/40 | |
Suitable for all Pre-cross flow & cross flow models. | ||
Not suitable for PINTO or V4 Engines | ||
Ford Capri 1300/ 1600 /2000 | C39/40 | |
Ford Cortina / X-Flow | C39/40 | |
Ford Escort MKI & MKII | C39/40 | |
Ford Escort RS 1600/ 1600 TC | C39/40 | |
Ford Consul Classic | C39/40 | |
Ford Cortina/ Lotus Twin Cam 1558cc | C39/40 | |
Ford Zephyr Zodiac ( 4+ 6 Cylinder) | C39/40 | |
HILLMAN | ||
Hillman Husky 1955-1960 | C39/40 | |
Hillman Minx 1947-1948 | C45 | |
Hillman Minx 1953-1960 | C39/40 | |
Hillman Imp | C39/40 | |
JAGUAR | ||
Jaguar 2.4L / 240 1963 – 1969 | C40L | |
Jaguar 3.4/ 3.8L/ 340 & S Models 1963 – 1968 | C42 | |
Jaguar E Type 3.8L | C42 | |
Jaguar E Type 3.8L S1 1964 | C45 | |
Jaguar XK120/ XK140/ XK150 | C45 | |
JENSON | ||
Jenson Interceptor 1951 – 1954 | C45 | |
JOWETT | ||
Jowett Javelin 1952 – 1954 | C39 | |
Jowett Javelin 1948 | C45 | |
LAND ROVER | ||
Land Rover 80 inch 1948 – 1952 | C39/40 | |
Land Rover Series I 1952 – 1959 | C39/40 | |
Land Rover Series I 1958 – 1959 | C45 | |
Land Rover Series II 1959 – 1960 | ||
Land Rover Series II 1959 – 1960 | C45 | |
Land Rover 4 + 6 Cylinder | C39/40 | |
Land Rover 6 Cylinder | C45 | |
LOTUS | ||
Lotus 7 Twin Cam | C39/40 | |
Lotus Elan/ Lotus Elan Plus 2/ Sprin | C39/40 | |
Lotus Elan S4/ Sprint | C39/40 | |
MARCOS | ||
Marcos 1600 GT / X- Flow 1969 – 1970 | C39/40 | |
MG | ||
MG 1 1/4 litre 1947-1949 | C45 | |
MG 1 1/4 litre 1950-1953 | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
MG TC – 1945 -1949 | C45 | |
MG TC – 1950 | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
MG TD – 1950 -1953 | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
MG TF – 1954 -1955 | ||
MG Magnette 1953 -1960 | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
MGA 1500/ 1600, MKII 1955 – 1962 | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
MGA Twin Cam | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
MG 1300 | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
MG Midget MKI (Early) | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
MG Midget MKI MKII , MIII | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
MGB 1962 -1968 | C39/40 | Available with Tacho |
MINI | ||
Classic Mini all years | C40 | |
MORRIS | ||
Morris Minor all years | C39/40 | |
Morris Oxford 1948- 1960 | C39/40 | |
Morris Oxford | C45 | |
MORGAN | ||
Morgan Plus 4 1946-1949 | C45 | |
Morgan Plus 4 1953 | C39/40 | |
Morgan 4/4 1600 | C39/40 | |
RELIANT | ||
Reliant Regal 1953 – 1960 | ||
Reliant Regent 1951 – 1960 | C39/40 | |
Relaint Robin | ||
Reliant TW9, B, C, E 1970 – 1972 | C39/40 | |
Reliant Sabre 6 | C40L | |
RILEY | ||
Riley 1 ½ L 1946 – 1949 | C45 | |
Riley 1 ½ L 1951 – 1960 | C39/40 | |
Riley 4/68 1959 – 1960 | C39/40 | |
Riley 2 ½ L 1947 – 1953 | C45 | |
Riley Pathfinder 1954 – 1957 | C45 | |
Riley 2.6 1958 – 1959 | C45 | |
ROVER | ||
Rover 2000/ SC/ TC | C42 | |
Rover 3L | C42 | |
SUNBEAM | ||
Sunbeam Alpine | C39/40 | |
Sunbeam Rapier | C39/40 | |
TRIUMPH | ||
Triumph GT6 | C39/40 | |
Triumph Herald | C39/40 | |
Triumph Spitfire 1.2L/ 1.3L | C39/40 | |
Triumph Vitesse | C39/40 | |
Triumph 2000 | C40L | |
TVR | ||
TVR Grantura | C40L | |
WOLSELEY | ||
Wolseley 1100/ 1300 | C39/40 | |
Wolseley 16/ 60 | C39/40 | |
Wolseley Hornet | C39/40 | |
VAUXHALL | ||
Vauxhall Cresta E-Type 1954 -1957 | C39/40 | |
Vauxhall Victor 1958 – 1959 | C39/40 | |
Vauxhall 10HP – 12HP 1946 – 1947 | C45 | |
Vauxhall Friary 1955 – 1957 | C39/40 | |
Vauxhall Dormobile 1955 – 1957 | C39/40 | |
Vauxhall Grosvenor 1955 – 1957 | C39/40 |
Although we have plenty of our own ‘How To’ guides and instructions, we liked this one a lot because it was done by a customer without any input from ourselves. It shows just how easy it is to fit electronic ignition to your classic car.
This post was originally written by ‘KernowCooper’ from The Mini Forum… Also known as Dave:
I’m going to do a step by step guide in fitting a Electronic Ignition Kit to a Mini with a 45D Lucas Distributor as the example but the Lucas 25/59Ds are done in exactly the same way.
I’m using a Powersparks Kit Model No K4 in my own Distributor as a example.
Important points before we start is Reversing the Red and Black ignition wires will destroy the ignition module and void the warranty. Using a coil with too little primary resistance can cause the ignition module to overheat and fail, thus voiding the warranty. This Will Be Covered In The Install Guide.
Included in the Kit is:
– The Ignition Module
– The Trigger Ring
– Small Cable tie
– Heat Transfer Paste.
1. Remove the Distributor Cap And Rotor Arm, Check inside the Distributor Cap for cracks and condition of the segments for corrosion
2. Remove the Points and Condenser and the LT lead through the Distributor body and disconnect the wire from the connector.
3. Be Careful of the earth wire between the Baseplate and Distributor body
4. Apply a covering of the Thermal Paste to the bottom of the Trigger unit and secure to the Baseplate (This gives heat transfer away from the module)
5. Install the module as shown in Picture 3 (I have removed the Baseplate only to show a better picture) You can do yours in place.
6. Once the Trigger Module is installed correctly and secured with the retaining screws, feed the wires and locate the cable grommet in the Distributor Body
7. Ensure the Red and Black cables have a run inline with the Distributor Body and are not pulled tight, this would not allow the Vacuum Advance to work if to tight. You can secure the 2 cables together with the small cable tie as required
8. Install the Trigger Ring onto the Distributor Shaft by locating the 4 cut outs correctly with the cam lobes and push down fully.
9. Install the supplied new Red Rotor Arm and replace the cap
Your now ready to connect the wiring. Negative Earth Vehicles
10.Connect the Black wire from the Module with the Male 6.3mm Spade Terminal into the wire you disconnected your points from.
11.Check the Vehicle Wiring on the Coil + (Positive) if you have one White Wire then your coil should be a 12v and connect it as per Picture 1
12. If you have a White/Pink and a White/ Yellow wire on the coil + (Positive) your car has a Ballasted Ignition System See below
Ballasted Ignition Wiring
13. Ballasted Ignition wiring is as follows. The Black wire from the Trigger Module remains the same on the Coil – (Negative) LT Wire
14. The Red Wire from the Trigger Module is Connected to a new 12v Ignition Feed from the Fuse Box.
Converting To A 12v Ignition System
15. You could if you bought a Kit convert the Ignition to a 12v System and then the White/Pink and White/Yellow wires are removed and the new 12v feed onto the + Terminal of the new coil.
Double Checking The Coil
16. How to test the Resistance of the coil, Place a Multimeter across the + and – of the Coil Terminals and a Ballasted Coil reads approx 1.5 Ohms and a standard Coil read approx 3 Ohms
I Recommend doing the conversion to a 12v Coil as the standard Ballast wiring the resistor has been known to overheat and damage the vehicles wiring loom
17. You are now ready to start the engine.
Start the engine and it is now time to check the Ignition Timing, This is because the Trigger Module and The Trigger Ring most likely has a different point in switching the Coil compared to the mechanical heal of the old Points.
Once you have set the timing in accordance with the Manufactures Specification its time to test the vehicle.
FAQ.
Can I increase my Plug Gaps? You can if you have a High Output Coil and the rest of your Ignition (Leads, Plugs, Cap) is in Good Condition Try 28/30thou as a starter and reduce if you get a misfire.
I have a Lucas 59D Distributor Does the small pin that moves the Blue Type points need to be removed? , Yes it does it prevents the Trigger Module From Locating Correctly See Picture 2 Below. I would remove the Baseplate and Cut the Post down, some have suggested bending it but I’d Nor Recommend That, as it could distort the Baseplate and prevent the Vacuum Advance from working.
If you require any more Information check out Powerspark Ignition website FAQs Here
Or speak to the team on 01527 889453
Update
If after fitting your engine refuses to fire bring the trigger ring up below the rotor arm, or buy the rotor arm with the trigger ring made on it.
Thanks for the post, guys!
It is important to have your voltage regulator working correctly, especially with electronic ignition because over voltage can shorten the life of many components on a classic car.
Our electronic distributors and electronic conversion kits operate between 6 & 16V. A faulty dynamo or voltage regulator/alternator can overcharge putting out voltages between 25 & 30V which is far too much for modern electronic ignition systems and other sensitive electronic components to cope with.
Alternators have their voltage regulators inbuilt as a complete unit and a simple voltage test at the battery terminals with the engine running should show between 13.7 and 14.5 v After testing if you do have a faulty dynamo or voltage regulator ask about the new Dynamator range which have original dynamo looks with the practicality and reliability of modern alternator electronics.
We can supply both negative and positive earth versions also available with the tachometer drive.
HOW DO I KNOW IF THE CUTOUT IS WORKING?
Two tests here.
HOW DO I KNOW IF THE REGULATOR IS WORKING?
Again there are two tests. To test the actual points you need to disconnect the wire leading to the F terminal. Then put an ohm meter between the terminals F & E. You should get near zero ohms with good points. If it is higher try connections as close to the points a possible to narrow down where the resistance is. Now open the points. It should increase to around 60 ohms as a resistor takes over the circuit.
To test the coils connect a volt meter between F & E and set the engine at idle. At idle you should be seeing the same voltage as at the D & E terminals (probably 6-12 volts). Increase the speed of the engine and voltage between F & E will rise as the dynamo feeds the battery. Increasing the RPMs further, you will see the voltage peek and then start to decline. At about 2500 RPM you may only be seeing 8 or less volts. What should be occurring is the regulator is regulating the dynamo field windings to prevent it from destroying itself. Dynamo output is related to how much voltage is being fed to the dynamo field windings and how fast it is spinning.
Put the same voltage to a slow spinning dynamo and a fast spinning one and you will get much greater output at the faster RPMs. So to keep control, and prevent dynamo burnout, the regulator senses output and drops voltage to save the dynamo at speed.
If voltage does not follow the above pattern then the regulator needs adjustment or you have a defective dynamo.